In a hurry? Here’s the ultimate one page guide to composting.
Photo found on Flickr.com courtesy of Rantz
Don’t be intimidated by composting! Composting is easy to do, and this guide is full of tips on how to get the best results.
If you don’t have time to read this whole site right now, no problem!
Just remember that all organic material breaks down. Even if you just toss your yard debris into a hole in the ground, it will eventually turn into compost. There are ways to get faster results, but it’s not the end of the world if you make step in the wrong direction along the way. For instance, if your compost is too dry, you can put some water on it and set things back on the right course. It’s like driving a car. If you are going in the wrong direction, turn the wheel and get back on the right road.
How quickly compost breaks down depends on four things – moisture, oxygen content, temperature, and a good mix of ingredients. The perfect compost pile is damp without being wet, like a squeezed out sponge. It should also be well aerated, with plenty of the oxygen that aerobic bacteria need. And it should have a mix of different types of materials. If you have just one thing, like grass clippings alone, or leaves alone, then it takes a really long time to break down. But if you have several materials and mix them all together, then they break down much more quickly.
To achieve optimal conditions, here are the things you should focus on:
1) Drainage.
2) Air flow.
3) Insulation.
4) Good Mix of Various Ingredients.
Good compost bins allow liquids to drain easily. Stagnant water can suffocate helpful bacteria, and allowing water to sit practically invites pests such as mosquitoes or raccoons. Many compost bins also offer some cover. A lid that keeps rain and snow out of the compost pile will protect the compost from excess liquid. Even if there’s a drain at the bottom of the bin (such as a spigot or mesh screen), it’s a good idea to avoid putting too much water in in the first place. Water that trickles through the compost can wash away useful nutrients and will also suck away heat. However, if you keep the lid on your compost bin all the time, you’ll want to check and make sure that you’re getting ENOUGH water, because materials don’t break down very well if they are too dry either. The general rule of thumb is that materials in your composter or compost pile should be as moist as a damp, wrung out sponge.
If you live in an arid area, you’ll want to keep an eye on your bin in the summer months to make sure that it stays damp enough when it sits in the direct sun. If it gets too dry, add water with the hose or uncover the pile or bin when it rains. If it seems too damp, leave the lid off in the sun and let some of the moisture out.
Many compost bins are designed to maximize air flow and circulation. This is because oxygen keeps away the stinky anaerobic microbes that can otherwise create odors. Keeping your compost well mixed and aerated prevents those anaerobic bacteria from getting established. Oxygen is fuel for the aerobic microbes that break down trash into finished compost – give them plenty of oxygen and they’ll work quickly. There are tumbling compost bins that help aerate their contents, or you may want to use a compost turning tool like a pitchfork or a specialized compost turning tool.
Temperature is another key to the breakdown of compost. Helpful microbes work best at elevated temperatures, so it’s important to keep their workplace warm. The fastest decomposition occurs between 140 and 160 degrees Fahrenheit, but some breakdown will occur as long as the compost is kept above freezing. Microbes generate their own heat as they work, so keeping the compost bin warm is all about proper insulation. Compost is self insulating – if you pile compost on top of compost, the middle of your compost stack will be the warmest. Position your compost so that the wind doesn’t blow on it and so that it sits in full sunlight. One way to get extra heat is to choose a compost bin with dark colored walls that warm up in the sun. Or if you are using a pile, put a black tarp over it. In hotter areas of the country, you might need to pick a shady spot instead.
The ingredients of your compost are also important. Microbes that break down compost do well on a mix of different food sources. They need plenty of cellulose-rich, carbon material along with nitrogen rich kitchen scraps. The ideal mix is 75% “brown” material and 25% “green” scraps by volume. Or if you are doing it by weight, it’s about a 50 / 50 mix of nitrogen rich and carbon rich materials. That means for every pound of kitchen scraps, it’s good to have a pound of leaves, for example.
“Brown” material includes dried grass, leaves, and shredded newspaper. These types of material take longer to break down than “green” vegetable peels and fruit rinds. If your compost is too wet, add more brown material. If you don’t have a lot of green material, you may need to add water to the compost.
Green and brown doesn’t refer to the actual color of the stuff you are putting in the composter — it’s just shorthand for saying nitrogen rich or carbon rich.
You can see our chart of nitrogen rich and carbon rich materials here on this page.
One last tip – have fun! Don’t take things too seriously and keep trying new techniques.


{ 13 comments… read them below or add one }
Dorothy Kocharoff 06.15.09 at 3:05 pm
I have a tumbler composting container and keep adding stuff each day but when should I stop putting more into it and where should I put stuff that I keep accumulating for it? I understand it takes six weeks to totally decompose for use, but if I save more stuff in a 5-gallon bucket or something, won’t the critters around here get into it and make a mess? I am very discouraged about this. thank you for any advice you may have.
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There are two ways you can compost with a tumbler, or with any bin, really.
1. You can batch compost, where you load up the bin until it’s full, and then let the whole thing break down until it is completely finished.
2. You can continuously compost, like you are doing, where you keep adding more and more stuff, so that the new stuff is mixed in with the stuff that’s breaking down, and it’s all in there together.
If you want to use continuous composting with a tumbler, you can stop adding when it approaches fullness, and let the last part of the contents break down, and then start over. But it sounds like you don’t like that option.
You can also run two bins at once, where you start adding to the second bin as you wait for the first bin to finish up.
Or, you can make a compost screen (or buy one). When you get full, run the contents through the screen and put any of the unfinished stuff back in the bin and keep going.
Six weeks for compost is an “ideal” situation. Realistically, hardly anyone gets finished compost that fast. So don’t get discouraged if yours isn’t finished in exactly six weeks. It doesn’t mean that you are doing anything wrong.
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Phil 08.09.09 at 5:23 pm
If I build a compost bin out of scrap lumber how much of a gap to I leave between the boards for air circulation. Also can I use non pressure treated materials.
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Just a small gap of less than an inch should be enough for air circulation. Cedar makes a good choice for building a compost bin if you don’t want to use non pressure treated wood.
You might be interested in this booklet for some ideas:
http://www.cleanairgardening.com/easy-composter-book.html
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Phil 08.09.09 at 5:52 pm
Does the bin have to have a bottom and a top.
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Tops and bottoms are optional.
A bottom isn’t typically necessary at all, unless you are worried about a stained deck or concrete.
A top can help keep out potential pests, or can keep your bin covered if you get too much rain. But it isn’t required.
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Kim 08.30.09 at 1:54 am
Can’t you use an old trash can upside down as a composter, by cutting out large holes all over the place? I would rather recycle that than buy a new item to compost with. Seems hipocritical.
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As long as there is drainage and aeration, yes. Although it seems like it would be difficult to add materials to an upside down trash can. You could keep it right side up, and make sure that you have big holes in the bottom for drainage.
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Kim 08.30.09 at 1:57 am
…and what about the germs that composting generates? I want to start composting, but worry about my 2 year old getting near or into the materials and getting sick from the bacteria.
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I have a three year old, and I’ve never really had a problem along those lines. I keep my compost in a closed bin. If you have a closed bin, a child wouldn’t be able to get inside anyway.
My kid enjoys helping throw vegetable scraps into the bin. He thinks it’s kind of fun / yucky to look inside and see the stuff breaking down.
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jan 09.10.09 at 7:15 pm
I have just inherited a tumbling composter. I have been searching for an hour on various sites for basic info on how to get started. Almost gave up until I found yours. Thanks for the great basics. Can’t wait to get started.
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caleb 09.17.09 at 12:02 pm
I have heard that urine helps to compost is this true anyone ?
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It’s nitrogen rich, at least!
Urine is a little too far off the mainstream path for my own personal composting.
But you might be interested in reading this article from the Washington Post:
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/10/08/AR2007100801028.html
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Jacqueline 09.29.09 at 1:05 am
I live in Canada, can I compost during the winter, outside?
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Yes and no. If your pile is big enough and you have it set up right, it can generate enough heat even when it’s cold outside. I’ve seen photos of a compost pile that was 140 degrees, with a layer of snow sitting on top of it.
But that’s unusual, and would take a lot of composting skill. What usually happens is that the composting process slows down or even stops. So you can keep adding to your bin over the winter, but it won’t really break down until the weather starts to warm up and the composting process starts up again.
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justin 10.06.09 at 8:19 pm
hey i was just reading on composting and i was wondering can i throw good fruit into a dried yard trimming to get it decomposing faster?
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Sounds like a waste of good fruit to me! I’d rather eat it.
But yes, mixing nitrogen rich materials like fruit and vegetable scraps with your dried yard trimmings will speed up the decomposition.
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eddy 12.21.09 at 12:18 am
I’m using a continuous type of tumbler for over 3 months in CA. I put 50/50 of kitchen waste (vege only) and brown (brown leaves) every now and then. I turn 2 to 3 round twice a week. It is moist OK inside. Attract a lot of mini flies. I stopped adding stuffs 2 weeks ago since it was getting too heavy to turn. I can still see leaves and small branches remaining intact inside. Anything I did wrong?
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A lot of flies and heavy to turn tells me that you might have too many nitrogen rich materials, and not enough carbon rich materials.
I would add as many more leaves as you can fit into the bin, mix it up well, and add water if that dries it out too much. Leaves compress quickly, so you might even be able to add a bunch of leaves one day, and add more a couple of days later.
Let me know if that helps or not!
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Dee 12.30.09 at 8:18 pm
When using leaves in the compost bin is it necessary to put the leaves through a mulcher first? I’ve been told that leaves take about three months to break down if not mulched first.
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I don’t bother with shredding my leaves when I compost. But yes, shredding them into smaller pieces will make them break down faster.
It also allows you to compress more leaves in the same amount of space.
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Rantz 01.03.10 at 4:21 am
Thanks muchly for using the photograph of my compost bin to highlight your article – I’m chuffed.
I’m also quite happy this this compost bin is serving me well. I live in the tropics (Darwin, Australia) and have had far too many bins not cope with the conditions – though that’s probably my brutishness around the bin and not the weather.
Nonetheless, the compost bin pictured is also doing really well in our Wet Season, where several bins I’ve had in the past have tended to leak all their contents this time of year. So far this Wet, we’ve had more than a few good storms and a wee monsoonal trough (2?) and this bin is keeping its content in as it should.
Again – thanks for using my photo.
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mat 01.05.10 at 10:44 am
hello,
I’ve been adding kitchen waste, yard clippings, leaves, shredded paper to my compost bin for over a year…The bin is enclosed, open bottom and has a lid that stays on…I have never aerated the pile and it continues to “melt” down…I would like to use the compost but it just has layers of new stuff on top of older layers…how do I go about utilizing the already cooked products at the bottom?…should I stop adding to it and turn it until it becomes useable dark soil?…
thank you very much
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supercomposter Reply:
January 11th, 2010 at 1:23 pm
Many compost bins have little doors at the bottom that you can raise up, so you can put your shovel right into the bottom of the bin and take out the finished compost and let the unfinished compost continue to “melt” downward.
Here’s an example:
http://www.cleanairgardening.com/recycled-plastic-composter.html
If you don’t have a bin that does that, you could take several approaches.
1. You could stop adding to the bin until everything is finished, and then unload the whole bin.
2. You could tilt the bottom of the composter upwards by grabbing the top and pulling back, so you’re sort of making your own door at the bottom. Then get the stuff out of the bottom with a shovel.
3. You can run the materials through a screen and screen out the non-finished stuff and throw it back in the bin, and take the finished compost and use it.
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